Giorgio Armani, 1984

“The Armani look of studied simplicity has such strength it tends to make conventionally designed women’s clothes look overdone.”

- BERNADINE MORRIS, 1983

A Softer Side of Siki

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Siki Im Spring/Summer 2014. Styled by Jeremy Lewis, photographed by Daniel McMahon. All rights reserved.

Calvin Klein, 1991

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“Calvin Klein has put a new spin on minimalism. Everything that could possibly be distracting is pared away. Makeup is natural. So are the coiffures. So are the clothes.

‘I feel so good about the collection,’ the designer said yesterday after his spring show. ‘I feel it’s for the modern woman. It’s all about softness.’

It is also about restraint. Those who feel clothes have to be elaborately decorated and vividly colored will not find much here to admire. This is probably the coolest, most understated collection of the season.

Since it is for warm weather, the coolness is not inappropriate.

Consider the colors: parchment, platinum, celadon and, of course, white. In this company, aqua stands out as a vivid hue.

Consider the shapes: a gently cut dress, with a high round neckline, camisole straps or no straps at all, is the key to everything.

The fabrics are equally self-effacing: washed silk, silk or wool crepe, linen and cashmere.

The clothes are the kind that show off a great figure and make one not so great look better than it is. The models skim along on flat beige T-strap shoes, looking totally at ease.

While those shapely dresses are the main event, they receive support from softly tailored jackets (often the same mid-thigh length as the dresses they accompany), skinny pants and shorts. Wrapped effects maintain the soft treatment in blouses.

There are just a few variations to the dominant look: a trench coat or two to cover everything up; a shot of navy as a change from all the pale tones; some all-over beads.

But the collection has a cohesion and a directness that is rarely achieved. All the ideas have passed through the designer’s sensibility, and he has worked over them until he got them just right. If it’s flash you’re looking for, this may not be the right stop. But if it’s elegance and style, it’s a real treat.”

- BERNADINE MORRIS, 1990

Koos at MAD

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Koos Van Den Akker chats with Garmento‘s Jeremy Lewis at MAD. Photography by Bruno Grizzo.

 

Tonight at MAD!

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Join MAD and Garmento editor Jeremy Lewis for an evening with Koos Van Den Akker, the first in a new series of fashion talks. The talk begins at 7 and is located in the downstairs theater. The event is free with museum admission. The Museum of Arts and Design is located at 2 Columbus Circle

An American fashion legend, Dutch-born and French-trained Koos Van Den Akker has been designing couture-caliber clothes over the last 40 years. Emerging at a time when folk traditions and home crafts were a huge influence in fashion, he made a name for himself as the master of couture collage. A rich panoply of color and pattern painstakingly pieced together, his designs have provided inspiration for fashion tastemakers like Nicolas Ghesquière, though they are known more popularly as worn by actor and comedian Bill Cosby on the hit sitcom The Cosby Show. Representing one of the highest level of clothes-making possible in New York City, Koos Van Den Akker’s operation is a true couture atelier, endless in its technical feats and creativity.


http://madmuseum.org/events/koos-van-den-akker

Nicolas Ghesquière Hearts Koos

Tim Blanks reports on Nicolas Ghesquière’s Koos Van Den Akker inspired Spring/Summer 2002 collection for Balenciaga.

Meet Koos

Vice did a great video feature on Koos, check it out and then come check him out this Thursday at MAD.